Controller test

How to test your controller

Plug the controller in with a USB data cable or pair it over Bluetooth, click anywhere on this page, then press any button. The grey overlay disappears and the test starts. Work through it in this order:

1. Buttons. Press every face button, bumper, d-pad direction, the two stick clicks and the menu buttons once. Each one should light up on the diagram, and the press counter should go up by exactly one each time.
2. Sticks. Let go of both sticks. The dot should sit in the middle and the X and Y values should stay close to 0.000. Then roll each stick around its edge: the trail should trace a full circle.
3. Triggers. Squeeze each trigger slowly. The bar should move smoothly from 0% to 100%, and the max value should reach 100%.
4. Vibration. Try the left motor, the right motor and, on an Xbox controller in Chrome or Edge on Windows, the trigger motors.

The diagram switches to PlayStation labels (Cross, Circle, Square, Triangle, L1, R2 and so on) when the controller reports a Sony id, and to Nintendo labels for a Switch Pro Controller. If you connect more than one pad, each gets its own tab.

How to read the results

Stick values at rest

Each stick reports two numbers from -1 to 1. At rest, a new stick usually reads within 0.01 or 0.02 of zero. If a stick rests at 0.05 or more, or the dot creeps without you touching it, that is stick drift. Run the stick drift test to measure it properly: it records both sticks for 8 seconds, checks the full range of each one, and tells you which in-game dead zone hides the drift.

Trigger range

Standard controllers report the triggers as analog values from 0 to 1, shown here as 0% to 100%. The max figure keeps the highest value since you connected. A trigger that never passes about 95% may be blocked by a trigger stop, dirt or a worn sensor, and some games ignore a pull that does not reach the end.

The press counter and double inputs

Press one button ten times and check that its count in the raw table goes up by ten. If it shows eleven or twelve, the switch is bouncing and the game will see double presses. This is the controller version of a mouse that double clicks.

Mapping and the raw table

"Standard" mapping means the browser recognised the controller and put its inputs in the usual order. "Raw order" means it did not, so the labels may be wrong; the raw table still lists every button and axis the browser receives, with values to three decimals.

Controller vibration test

Most controllers have two rumble motors: a heavy one on the left for low, strong rumble and a light one on the right for a fine buzz. Xbox One and Series controllers also have small motors in the triggers. What a web page can drive depends on the browser:

If the page says vibration is supported but you feel nothing, try the strongest setting, then test the controller on its console or in a game before deciding a motor has failed.

When the controller does not appear

The most common reason is simply that no button has been pressed yet: browsers hide controllers until then, so one page cannot quietly list your devices. After that, check for software that takes over the controller. Steam Input, DS4Windows and reWASD can hide the real pad or add a second, virtual Xbox controller, which shows up here as an extra tab. Charge-only USB cables are another frequent cause. A Bluetooth controller that is still paired with a console nearby may connect to the console instead of your computer.

What a browser test cannot measure

This page shows exactly what your browser receives, and that is all. It cannot measure input lag or the controller's polling rate in milliseconds: the browser checks the controller at its own pace and the page reads it once per screen refresh. It also cannot see features outside the standard gamepad interface, such as the DualSense touchpad position, motion sensors or adaptive triggers. For those, use the PS5 controller test in Chrome or Edge on a computer. Xbox owners can check trigger rumble on the Xbox controller test.